The best Korean food in Paris can be found in the city's ugliest building. The Restaurant Namsan is tucked away on the ground floor of a sprawling and space-age apartment block in the 19th. En route from M° Riquet, you may pass a tour bus or two - Namsan is packed with Korean tourists who will not eat anywhere else.

Enter the brightly lit and tacky space and your eyes may wander to the gift shop - a kiosk selling little Eiffel Towers for the faithful. Or perhaps they will be drawn upward to the thousands of Korean business cards marking history on the ceiling.

Eventually you will settle into a table and spend an eternity with the menu. Look all you want, but order the barbecue Coréenne poitrine de porc piquant avec seiche. Because whoever thought of pairing bacon and squid is a genius.

You could draw out the anticipation by ordering a starter or two. We did, and quite enjoyed our
bulots à la sauce Coréenne (yes, snails) and crêpe aux poireaux (with squid).

It's possible to eat very well (and also to drink watery beer) for around 20 euros per person. The lunch specials are a steal, but looking at the exterior building in the cold light of day may just ruin your appetite.

In any case, go and see them at 87 avenue de Flandre. They're not listed online, so you'll just have to trust us. About the location, and also the bacon-squid combination. Mmmm...